America's favorite card game brought with it a mid-century must: the ladies bridge club lunch. Outfit your card table with vintage implements, then whip up a throwback menu, just as worthy of a bridge party today as it was 50 years ago.
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Ladies Bridge Lunch
Through the height of the bridge craze, from the late 1920s through the '60s, groups of gal pals met regularly in homes across the country; the gatherings ranged from casual (coffee and cake) to elaborate luncheons, when a multi-course meal was served.
And — by today’s standards, at least — the fare can earn a bad rap: "Food historians often look down on the dishes that became a huge part of sociable bridge," says Maggy Simony, author of Bridge Table or What's Trump Anyway. Think congealed molded salads, tea sandwiches, a range of dishes all tinted the same color — "these are the classic, Wasp-ish foods of ladies bridge lunch."
"The one thing a ladies lunch always was? Polite," says Michael Stern, who co-authored Square Meals with his wife, Jane. The couple's cookbook delves into all sorts of delightfully dated recipes, from Hawaiian Chicken and Pineapple Curry to an entire lineup for a pink party buffet — every dish, from gin co*cktails splashed with grenadine, to an apple salad made with cherry Jell-O, boasts the hue.
Needless to say, the era left behind recipe after recipe of intriguingly period-specific grub. We compiled our five favorites — playful treats that are sure to be a crowd pleaser.
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Tomato Aspic
The beauty of serving gelatin dishes? A hostess is free to entertain with ease, while the ideal dish firms up in the fridge. The Sterns' recipe calls for using a heart-shaped mold (doubly appropriate for the finished product's deep red shade), but any mold will do.
2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
1/4 cup cold water
1/4 cup boiling water
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, with juice
1 tablespoon chopped onion
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Lettuce leaves
Mayonnaise
Soak gelatin in cold water, then add boiling water. Cook tomatoes, onion, celery seed, cloves, salt, and sugar for 15 minutes. Puree in food processor or blender. Add lemon juice and dissolved gelatin. Pour into 6 individual lightly oiled molds or a 4-cup mold. Chill until firm. Serve on crisp lettuce leaves with mayonnaise.
Serves 6.
Recipe courtesy of Square Meals by Jane and Michael Stern
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Cucumber Tea Sandwiches
Writes Stern: "The bread, of course, ought to be white—thin and trimmed of crust." Better yet? Sandwiches that are cut with a cookie cutter into, say, a spade, heart, diamond, or club.
Slice seedless cucumber as fine as possible. Lay in pan and sprinkle with salt. Cover with paper towels for 1 hour. The cucumbers will yield much of their moisture, and any bitter taste. Place thin layer of cucumber slices between slices of bread spread with mayonnaise and butter.
Recipe courtesy of Square Meals by Jane and Michael Stern
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Five-Cup Salad
This ambrosial dish includes one of the bridge club hostess's secret weapons: marshmallows.
1 cup shredded coconut
1 cup mandarin oranges, drained
1 cup crushed pineapple, drained
1 cup sour cream
1 cup miniature marshmallows (white only!)
Combine all ingredients.
Serves 4 to 6.
Recipe courtesy of Square Meals by Jane and Michael Stern
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5
Cream Scones
These crisp biscuits nicely accompany a cup of coffee or tea.
2 cups sifted cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons butter
1 egg plus 1 egg yolk, well beaten
1/3 cup light cream
1 egg white, slightly beaten
Sugar
Preheat oven to 450.
Sift flour, measure, add baking powder, salt, and 1 tablespoon sugar, and sift again. Cut in butter: add whole egg, egg yolk, and cream, and stir until all flour is dampened. Then stir vigorously until mixture forms a soft dough and follows spoon around bowl.
Turn out on floured board and knead 30 seconds. Roll out to 1/2-inch thickness and cut into 1-inch triangles. Place on ungreased baking sheet. Brush tops lightly with egg white, and sprinkle with sugar.
Bake 10 to 12 minutes, until light brown. Makes 12.
Recipe courtesy of Square Meals by Jane and Michael Stern
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Pink Ladies
Pink lemonade does fine as a bridge club libation, but this co*cktail of the same shade does even better.
1 ounce light cream
1 shot gin
Dash grenadine
Shake well with ice in a co*cktail shaker. Strain into martini or manhattan glass. Makes 1 drink.
Recipe courtesy of Square Meals by Jane and Michael Stern